Several tens of kilometres down the coast, at the mouth of the Neretva River, the landscape again changes dramatically. Everything is peaceful and flat; there is no spectacular meeting of mountain and sea, only the monotonous flow of the river in a tranquil delta covered with reed. The silence of the scene is interrupted by occasional wing flutter of local birds, while shallow trupe gently glide on the water. The Trupe are local boats that have been made for centuries in the river valley, and still are an important part of life there.
The beginning of Christian spirituality in this area is represented by the small old-Croatian church of Sv. Mihajlo (St. Michael) in Stonsko polje (Ston field), characterized by original building solutions and harmonious blending with the environment. Although far from urban centres, this church was decorated with wall paintings that are the only preserved examples of early Romanesque painting in Dalmatia. The towns of Mali Ston and Veliki Ston, which guard the entrance to Peljesac Peninsula, were founded by the Dubrovnik Republic in the 14th century. These are lovely small urban communities, with a special flavour imparted to them by salt pans and oyster farms. Within their walls both towns reveal a small grid of streets built on a plan, whose regularity is set off against the wild Mediterranean abundance of Peljesac Peninsula. The abundance supplied by Mediterranean nature and climate clearly encouraged a rational approach to urban thinking and living. As for Peljesac Peninsula, the famous wines of Postup and Dingac are the best expression of the Mediterranean bounty that is to be found all over the peninsula, in Hrasni, Kuna, Orebic, and Lovisce.

The nearby island of Korcula takes pride in its strong astringent wines, as well as in its dense coniferous forest that a massive fire ten years ago did not manage to destroy. According to legend, Korcula owes its name to this dark green cover growing on pure rock. There are many things to do on the island: visit the cathedral of Sv. Marko (St. Mark’s) in the town of Korcula, admire the carving and building skills of local family workshops, sail into the port of Punat, stop by Smokvica and Blato, spend a night in Vela luka, take a local boat from Prizba to a nearby islet. Two mediaeval chivalric tournaments are held on the island: Moreska in Korcula and Kumpanjija in Blato. These tournaments originated in memories of times long gone that over the centuries became part of local folklore. The beginning of the town of Korcula goes back to the 4th century B.C., when the Greeks founded a colony on the island which was recorded on the famous tablet called the Psephism of Lumbarda. Already at the beginning of the 13th century, Korcula had a town statute. Throughout history, the life of the town revealed a high level of consciousness about communal life and urban culture. The town of Korcula has two focal points: a secular square with the town council and a spiritual square with the cathedral. Such an arrangement of public space is characteristic of the Late Middle Ages, and in the town of Korcula it was applied on a smaller scale obviously following the standards of much more powerful European towns of that time.

The town of Lastovo on the eponymous island exemplifies in a different way the long traditions of urban life in the Mediterranean. It is situated on the slopes of a gently ascending hill, so that for centuries houses had been built close together. The available space was utilized in an optimal fashion, so that each succeeding house rises above others, and has its own view, sun, and air. Numerous surrounding islets set in a deep blue sea provide an additional charm of Lastovo, especially for boaters.

The nearby island of Mljet is full of history. Its landscape evokes the legend that Ulysses visited Mljet on his wanderings in the Mediterranean. Whether there is any foundation to the legend is not easy to determine, but it is a fact is that the island has a long history, as evidenced by numerous Illyrian ruins, mediaeval churches, and its biggest attraction-a Benedictine monastery built on the islet in the middle of Vransko Lake in the 12th century. After that, the monastery was rebuilt several times, a common occurrence in the Adriatic area during its turbulent history.

Those on the lookout for picturesque small islands will not miss the opportunity to visit the Elafiti islands, which stretch from Peljesac to Dubrovnik. Once, Dubrovnik aristocracy relaxed in their modest summer villas on the islands. In spite of modern tourist construction, one can still feel here the magnificence of the lifestyle and culture of the most powerful citizens of the Dubrovnik Republic. To round off the experience, one should also see the Renaissance Arboretum in Trsteno, laid out at the beginning of the 16th century around the Gucetic villa. In spite of devastation caused by war and fire, the park still evokes the sophistication of life in Renaissance Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik is best approached by way of Rijeka Dubrovacka, a long and narrow canyon named after the river running through it. In this picturesque environment, Dubrovnik nobility had luxurious and elegant summer villas. Enjoying this beautiful environment and the freedom they had as a result of their diplomatic skill, citizens of the independent and affluent Dubrovnik Republic built such villas during the peak of their prosperity from the 15th through the 17th century. These houses blend harmoniously in the scenery defined by a gentle shore and the calm water, testifying to the considerate attitude of their builders to the natural environment. When you look at them today, though deserted and quiet, they produce the same effect as the sight of Dubrovnik itself-they speak of the habit of harmony acquired by centuries of existence in the Mediterranean. That harmony is the result of an attitude of moderation, and characterizes Dubrovnik at every turn. According to Constantine Porphyrogenitus, Byzantine emperor and historian, this town on the rock was built by refugees from the colony of Epidaurum in the 7th century. It survived numerous sieges and earthquakes, trusting itself to its patron saint St. Vlaho (St. Blaise). All the knowledge of the history and Renaissance culture, of the Baroque churches, of the legislation and the economy of this unique place cannot replace the pleasure of being in it and the pleasure of experiencing its harmony. Dubrovnik was really built to human scale, allowing its citizens to find enough space for themselves in the community by adhering to the town motto of attending to the common good by forgetting the private good. That is why Dubrovnik appears as a paradigm of town as community that, unlike literary utopian dreams, realized to a great extent the ideal of a kind of urban democracy. That is shown by its walls and elegant fountains, the Rector’s Palace, the Sponza Palace, Franciscan and Dominican monasteries, the pharmacy from the 14th century, and the bronze statues of "zelenci" ("green men"), which still strike the town clock, symbolizing the passage of time. Dubrovnik has a rich cultural scene today, especially in the summer when the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is held and the international Lazareti Art Workshop is active. Dubrovnik’s surroundings are attractive too: the romantic Lokrum and the villages of Zupa Dubrovacka, Cavtat, which emerged from the ashes of Epidaurum, and Konavle, with its miniature towns and picturesque folk costumes and customs. The influence of Dubrovnik is felt all the way down to Prevlaka and Cape Ostro, the southernmost point of mainland Croatia. The whole of that small area was a part of a universe to which "Grad" (the Town) was the metropolis, and which at the same time was a measure for the Town. One should add that the history of Dubrovnik was also marked by culture, shipping, and trade. Its culture left a mark even on Palagruza, the lonely island in the middle of the Adriatic Sea and the southernmost point of Croatia.

Several tens of kilometres down the coast, at the mouth of the Neretva River, the landscape again changes dramatically. Everything is peaceful and flat; there is no spectacular meeting of mountain and sea, only the monotonous flow of the river in a tranquil delta covered with reed. The silence of the scene is interrupted by occasional wing flutter of local birds, while shallow trupe gently glide on the water. The Trupe are local boats that have been made for centuries in the river valley, and still are an important part of life there.
The beginning of Christian spirituality in this area is represented by the small old-Croatian church of Sv. Mihajlo (St. Michael) in Stonsko polje (Ston field), characterized by original building solutions and harmonious blending with the environment. Although far from urban centres, this church was decorated with wall paintings that are the only preserved examples of early Romanesque painting in Dalmatia. The towns of Mali Ston and Veliki Ston, which guard the entrance to Peljesac Peninsula, were founded by the Dubrovnik Republic in the 14th century. These are lovely small urban communities, with a special flavour imparted to them by salt pans and oyster farms. Within their walls both towns reveal a small grid of streets built on a plan, whose regularity is set off against the wild Mediterranean abundance of Peljesac Peninsula. The abundance supplied by Mediterranean nature and climate clearly encouraged a rational approach to urban thinking and living. As for Peljesac Peninsula, the famous wines of Postup and Dingac are the best expression of the Mediterranean bounty that is to be found all over the peninsula, in Hrasni, Kuna, Orebic, and Lovisce.

The nearby island of Korcula takes pride in its strong astringent wines, as well as in its dense coniferous forest that a massive fire ten years ago did not manage to destroy. According to legend, Korcula owes its name to this dark green cover growing on pure rock. There are many things to do on the island: visit the cathedral of Sv. Marko (St. Mark’s) in the town of Korcula, admire the carving and building skills of local family workshops, sail into the port of Punat, stop by Smokvica and Blato, spend a night in Vela luka, take a local boat from Prizba to a nearby islet. Two mediaeval chivalric tournaments are held on the island: Moreska in Korcula and Kumpanjija in Blato. These tournaments originated in memories of times long gone that over the centuries became part of local folklore. The beginning of the town of Korcula goes back to the 4th century B.C., when the Greeks founded a colony on the island which was recorded on the famous tablet called the Psephism of Lumbarda. Already at the beginning of the 13th century, Korcula had a town statute. Throughout history, the life of the town revealed a high level of consciousness about communal life and urban culture. The town of Korcula has two focal points: a secular square with the town council and a spiritual square with the cathedral. Such an arrangement of public space is characteristic of the Late Middle Ages, and in the town of Korcula it was applied on a smaller scale obviously following the standards of much more powerful European towns of that time.

The town of Lastovo on the eponymous island exemplifies in a different way the long traditions of urban life in the Mediterranean. It is situated on the slopes of a gently ascending hill, so that for centuries houses had been built close together. The available space was utilized in an optimal fashion, so that each succeeding house rises above others, and has its own view, sun, and air. Numerous surrounding islets set in a deep blue sea provide an additional charm of Lastovo, especially for boaters.

The nearby island of Mljet is full of history. Its landscape evokes the legend that Ulysses visited Mljet on his wanderings in the Mediterranean. Whether there is any foundation to the legend is not easy to determine, but it is a fact is that the island has a long history, as evidenced by numerous Illyrian ruins, mediaeval churches, and its biggest attraction-a Benedictine monastery built on the islet in the middle of Vransko Lake in the 12th century. After that, the monastery was rebuilt several times, a common occurrence in the Adriatic area during its turbulent history.

Those on the lookout for picturesque small islands will not miss the opportunity to visit the Elafiti islands, which stretch from Peljesac to Dubrovnik. Once, Dubrovnik aristocracy relaxed in their modest summer villas on the islands. In spite of modern tourist construction, one can still feel here the magnificence of the lifestyle and culture of the most powerful citizens of the Dubrovnik Republic. To round off the experience, one should also see the Renaissance Arboretum in Trsteno, laid out at the beginning of the 16th century around the Gucetic villa. In spite of devastation caused by war and fire, the park still evokes the sophistication of life in Renaissance Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik is best approached by way of Rijeka Dubrovacka, a long and narrow canyon named after the river running through it. In this picturesque environment, Dubrovnik nobility had luxurious and elegant summer villas. Enjoying this beautiful environment and the freedom they had as a result of their diplomatic skill, citizens of the independent and affluent Dubrovnik Republic built such villas during the peak of their prosperity from the 15th through the 17th century. These houses blend harmoniously in the scenery defined by a gentle shore and the calm water, testifying to the considerate attitude of their builders to the natural environment. When you look at them today, though deserted and quiet, they produce the same effect as the sight of Dubrovnik itself-they speak of the habit of harmony acquired by centuries of existence in the Mediterranean. That harmony is the result of an attitude of moderation, and characterizes Dubrovnik at every turn. According to Constantine Porphyrogenitus, Byzantine emperor and historian, this town on the rock was built by refugees from the colony of Epidaurum in the 7th century. It survived numerous sieges and earthquakes, trusting itself to its patron saint St. Vlaho (St. Blaise). All the knowledge of the history and Renaissance culture, of the Baroque churches, of the legislation and the economy of this unique place cannot replace the pleasure of being in it and the pleasure of experiencing its harmony. Dubrovnik was really built to human scale, allowing its citizens to find enough space for themselves in the community by adhering to the town motto of attending to the common good by forgetting the private good. That is why Dubrovnik appears as a paradigm of town as community that, unlike literary utopian dreams, realized to a great extent the ideal of a kind of urban democracy. That is shown by its walls and elegant fountains, the Rector’s Palace, the Sponza Palace, Franciscan and Dominican monasteries, the pharmacy from the 14th century, and the bronze statues of "zelenci" ("green men"), which still strike the town clock, symbolizing the passage of time. Dubrovnik has a rich cultural scene today, especially in the summer when the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is held and the international Lazareti Art Workshop is active. Dubrovnik’s surroundings are attractive too: the romantic Lokrum and the villages of Zupa Dubrovacka, Cavtat, which emerged from the ashes of Epidaurum, and Konavle, with its miniature towns and picturesque folk costumes and customs. The influence of Dubrovnik is felt all the way down to Prevlaka and Cape Ostro, the southernmost point of mainland Croatia. The whole of that small area was a part of a universe to which "Grad" (the Town) was the metropolis, and which at the same time was a measure for the Town. One should add that the history of Dubrovnik was also marked by culture, shipping, and trade. Its culture left a mark even on Palagruza, the lonely island in the middle of the Adriatic Sea and the southernmost point of Croatia.

From Rogoznica, the Adriatic coastal highway continues southeast, through the picturesque Marina, on to Trogir, a town situated on an islet between the mainland and the island of Ciovo. Built on the foundations of a Greek colony, Trogir is a unique example of mediaeval town planning. Its streets are narrow, while the houses are of equal height-an expression of the concern for measure characteristic of Adriatic towns. Trogir is rich in architectural monuments and statues, such as the Greek relief of God Kairos, the humble old Croatian church of Sv. Barbara (St. Barbara), and Gothic and Renaissance palaces. The focal point of the town space is the cathedral of Sv. Lovro (St. Lawrence). The cathedral’s main portal was made by master Radovan in 1240, signed as "the best of all in this art". A counterpart to this Romanesque masterpiece is the chapel of the Blessed Ivan Ursini, the work of Nikola Firentinac, housing sculptures by Andrija Alesi, Ivan Duknovic, and Firentinac himself. The many magnificent achievements in architecture and sculpture speak of the high cultural standards of the citizens of Trogir. When the town was destroyed in 1123, its citizens rebuilt it just as the citizens of other Adriatic towns did in similar situations. And like Zadar and Biograd, despite the destruction, Trogir has continued to exist in the same place, not only because of favorable location, but also because of the spirit of its citizens dedicated to their communal traditions.
The history of Solin is somewhat similar. The town developed on the location of ancient Salona, the biggest Roman town on the east Adriatic coast, which was completely destroyed during the Slav and Avar invasion in the 7th century. However, Solin never matched the urban development of ancient Salona, because the neighbouring Split emerged as a more attractive town. Split developed in what remained of the palace of Roman emperor Diocletian, and the Romans escaping from Salona settled in it, and later the Croats arrived as well. A palace thus became a city, and Solin was turned into its suburb. The road from Trogir to Split leads through Kastela, a series of seven small towns that developed from forts (or Kastel; thereby the name). These forts were built by secular and clerical feudal landlords from Trogir and Split during the 15th and 16th centuries to protect their land from the Turks. They were the cores around which the later small towns congealed, in the same way that Diocletian’s palace gave refuge to survivors from Salona to form the core of today’s Split.

Like in Zadar, the history of Split clearly speaks of the tenacity of its citizens and of intensive interactions of old and new cultures. One easily notices this kind of heritage by walking from the Peristyle of Diocletian’s palace to what used to be the Emperor’s mausoleum and is now the cathedral of St. Duje (Domnius), passing by Andrija Buvina’s Romanesque doorposts, and arriving into the middle of a pagan shrine that Christianity transformed into a superb expression of profound religiosity. Juraj Dalmatinac left a masterpiece here too: the altar of Sv. Stosija (St. Anastasia) with a relief of the flagellation of Christ marks an artistic and cultural watershed in European history. Obviously inspired by the renewal of interest in classical sculpture during the Renaissance, Juraj reintroduced the classical attention to the physical after centuries of one-dimensional mediaeval spirituality. A harmonious Romanesque belfry dominates the whole complex as an expression of the ultimate victory of the mediaeval civilization over the classical one-an expression of religious victory, but also of cultural interaction.

On the eve of the modern era, Split crossed the walls of the Emperor’s Palace and expanded in all directions, growing into the modern town at the foot of Marjan Hill that it now is. Like most Adriatic towns, Split is very closely involved with its sea and its islands. Although each of the Central Dalmatian islands is unique in its own way, they all gravitate towards Split. The closest to Split is the island of Solta, a small pearl of an island. Its coves are best viewed from the sea; boaters should disembark at Stomorka or Necujam where Diocletian’s officials spent their summer holidays, and Renaissance poets mused over the scenery. It is wonderful to set sail from Solta for Brac in the morning, or to pass through the Hvar channel at sunset. There are many island sights worth seeing, such as Skrip on Brac, where there is a miniature Baroque church, or Blaca with its dwellings of hermit priests, or Stari Grad on the island of Hvar where Hektorovic’s fort exudes humanistic enthusiasm, or the theatre in the town of Hvar, which was opened at the beginning of the 17th century in the old arsenal building. It is equally rewarding to spend some time relaxing in Jelsa or Vrboska on Hvar; to attend popular processions and singing on the night of Easter Friday on Hvar, Solta, or Brac; to see the burning of the traditional gajeta (a half-decked one-masted fishing boat) in honour of St. Nicholas in Komiza, or to set sail from Vis for Bisevo to enjoy Modra Spilja (Blue Cave), a unique natural phenomenon. Another thing to see in the sea near Split is the island of Jabuka with its black cliffs, rising a hundred meters out of the sea. Remembering that Diocletian’s palace was made of Brac stone, that the Hvar theatre was built at the beginning of the 17th century, and that the Renaissance poet Hektorovic from Hvar wrote lyrics about life at sea, one can appreciate the flair and sparkle of life on the central Dalmatian islands. Nature is bountiful on these islands, and the people knew how to utilize its bounty, and expand it by their imagination and creativity.

Deeper in the Split hinterland is the town of Sinj. Since the 18th century, the Sinj Alka is held each summer. Horsemen attired in elaborate uniforms compete by trying to pick up a metal ring (alka) hanging from a wire with a lance in full gallop. Sinj is one of the biggest Marian shrines in Croatia, attracting pilgrims every summer on the Feast of the Assumption in August. The coastal region east of Split is also interesting, starting with the gravel beaches of Stobrec. Omis, situated on the gigantic canyon mouth of the Cetina river, was famous for its mediaeval pirates whose fort stands there. The ancient church of Sv. Petar (St. Peter) in Priko is an example of the earliest period in Croatian sacral architecture. Makarska is situated in a magnificent setting under Biokovo Mountain. The stone houses of Makarska viewed against the backdrop of the rugged mountain illustrate the effort of the people of the Adriatic to adapt to their environment.

In the hinterland of Central Dalmatia runs the river Krka, the bigger part of which was declared a national park. More than two thirds of its total length flows through a canyon, with mostly vertical walls over a hundred meters high. There are seven waterfalls on the river, where a vast amount of water plunges with great energy. The most beautiful falls are Roski slap and Skradinski buk; the latter consists of seventeen cascades with the total drop of over forty meters. Situated between the last two waterfalls is a lake called Visovacko jezero, on which there is an island with a monastery.
Further south in Central Dalmatia is the Cetina river, which collects the tribute of many underground streams and delivers it to the Adriatic Sea at its picturesque mouth near Omis. The Cetina river area abounds in natural attractions, such as karst coves or the unusual karst formation in Radmanovi mlinci on the top of which there are trees.

Further down the coast, above the Makarska Riviera, rises Biokovo Mountain; besides Velebit, this is probably the most dramatic encounter of mountain and sea on the Croatian coast. Attractive beaches at the foot of Biokovo came into being as a result of this encounter-because wave action turned the mountain rock into the fine gravel well-known to tourists. Since recently, the chamois live on Biokovo again.

The island of Pag is an attractive destination particularly for boaters. It is about fifty kilometres long from the westernmost cape Lun to the easternmost point Fortica. Sheep graze on scarce rocky pastures that occupy the largest part of the island. A famous sheep milk cheese is made here, which represents everything Nature has to offer on the island: in its intensive salty taste one can feel the salt swept from the sea surface by the bora all over the Velebit coastal area and the rocky pastures of Pag. The stern gray rocky attire of the island is interestingly contrasted by the fineness of locally made lace. Pag lace is very regular and geometric, perhaps an expression of a desire to create a harmonious life in a harsh environment. Such a desire affected the construction of the town of Pag in the 15th century: it was built according to the plan by the architect and sculptor Juraj Dalmatinac. He deliberately transferred the traditions of urban planning of other Adriatic towns into the foundations of the new Pag.
Not only boaters will find Pag interesting, but also those who travel on its main road only to find themselves in the middle of an incomparable landscape. The road across Pag runs from the eastern part of the island to the bridge at Fortica that connects the island with the mainland. From there one can get further east towards what is known as the Novigrad Sea and the Karin Sea, while enjoying the view of Velebit Mountain. Alternately, one can turn south and visit the ancient town of Nin, the first seat of Croatian mediaeval rulers. On this location, on the eastern edge of the Ravni Kotari region, the first settlement was the Illyrian Aenona, which continued as a relatively prosperous town in the Roman period. Between the 9th and the 11th century, Nin became the centre of the parish and the see of the "Croatian bishop," whose jurisdiction extended over the whole area of Croatia. The baptismal font of duke Viseslav was found in Nin, containing the first mention of a Croatian dignitary. The church of Sv. Kriz (Holy Cross) from the 11th century and the fortified church of Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas) in nearby Prahulje are examples of early mediaeval architecture. A visitor in Nin will be surprised by the difference between the craggy island of Pag nearby and the tame plain around Nin with its long muddy beaches. At the same time Nin offers a view of Velebit in the distance, whose peaks are hidden in clouds. Such dramatic changes of landscape are characteristic of central Dalmatia.

With a history of several thousand years, Zadar lies in the middle of Ravni Kotari. Its patron saint is Sv. Krsevan (St. Chrysogonus). The Zadar peninsula, now the town centre, is full of traces of various cultures that succeeded one another over the centuries. Since the arrival of the Croats in the early Middle Ages, Zadar considerably outgrew its original core, but the gridiron street plan of Roman Jadera is still visible today. The remains of the ancient Forum, the church of Sveto Trojstvo (Holy Trinity), later renamed after a mediaeval Zadar bishop by the name of Donat, the Romanesque cathedral of Sv. Anastazija (St. Anastasia), other mediaeval churches, town walls, the unique collection of Zadar’s Gold and Silver, residential buildings from the 19th century – all that comprises a small-scale mosaic of the ancient urban feel of Zadar. Once, one entered the town through a Renaissance town gate designed by Michele Sammicheli. The scent of Swiss chard and grilled fish fills the streets of Zadar, and a glass of red wine is usually accompanied by a song. A Mediterranean melancholy pervades this town, especially on the waterfront in the evening when the sun sets behind the Zadar islands. The wild rocky scenery of the Zrmanja canyon in the hinterland of Zadar is a must-see. The river runs in the area between the Karin and Novigrad Seas, where a Mediterranean atmosphere mixes with fierce karst. Zadar could not function without its hinterland, but it also cannot be imagined without its islands and the islanders who daily ferry to "town."

The "island connection" provides Zadar with vitality and seafood. It is a very rewarding experience to sail around Zadar archipelago-from the remotest island of Silba, by Olib and Molat to the closer Sestrunj, Ugljan, Veli Iz and Mali Iz, Dugi otok, and Pasman. Most boaters who sail here stay longer than planned, fascinated by the charming islands, their beautiful small towns, and sad half-empty fishing villages. The most spectacular part of Zadar archipelago are the Kornati islands, a group of 125 islands and reefs that form a wall of vertical cliffs facing the open sea, the highest of which is over a hundred meters. This geomorphologic phenomenon has almost a primordial aura, since apart from two small settlements on the biggest island all others are uninhabited. The water in the countless bays of the Kornati is deep and transparent, and the tranquility of the islands is almost matchless. This picture of encounters between small segments of land and sea cannot be complete without white sails gliding slowly in the afternoon sun. It should be added that the Kornati are not only a natural wonder, but that there are interesting historical monuments there too, such as the foundation of the Roman villa in Mala Proversa, and the ruins of the early Christian church of Sv. Marija (St. Mary) and the Byzantine fort on the biggest island. Many Kornati cliffs and reefs have no name, but some have unusual names that suit their appearance: Klobucar (Hatmaker), Balun (Ball), Kosara (Basket), Mrtvac (Dead Man). According to legend, the people of Murter, always quick of wit, reported these names to Austro-Hungarian surveyors.

Closer to land than Kornati, next to Ugljan, is the island of Pasman. Its settlements, from Zdrelac in the west to Tkon in the east, face the mainland and the ancient town of Biograd. The history of Pasman villages is closely related to the history of Biograd. Although Biograd is mentioned in 10th century records, nothing from that period has been preserved, due to destruction of the town in 1125, following which the Benedictine monks from Biograd built a monastery in Tkon on Pasman. Although Biograd was rebuilt after 1125, it was destroyed again by the town defenders themselves as they retreated before the Turks, in the middle of the 17th century.

Still, Biograd rose again like a phoenix, and its Riviera, stretching all the way to Pirovac, with the island of Murter off the coast and Vransko jezero in the immediate hinterland, is one of the most attractive sections of the Adriatic coast.

To the south of the Kornati, we continue our journey through Sibenik archipelago, which includes the islands of Zirje, Kakan, Kaprije, Zmajan, Prvic, Zlarin, and the miniature island of Krapanj. In two or three days of sailing in the archipelago, one can get to know the macchia and the picturesque bays of Zirje, and the Baroque churches of Zlarin. Until recently, here you could meet the only coral divers in the Adriatic, and their trade is still remembered in the traditional dress of Zlarin women and in the stories of the residents of Krapanj. The islands gravitate towards Sibenik; by land, one gets to Sibenik from Biograd by way of Tribunj and Vodice.

From the sea the view of the town is magnificent: to get to the harbour, vessels have to pass through the Sv. Ana channel (St. Anne), and by Fort Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas), the work of the famous Italian Renaissance fortification builder Michele Sammichele. The town developed on hilly terrain, which is thoroughly packed with houses that have been huddled together since the town was first mentioned in 1066. Gradina, the oldest part of Sibenik, still exudes a mediaeval atmosphere. As the town expanded around Gradina, the building styles changed. Stylistic variation can also be seen on the most important building in Sibenik, the cathedral of Sv. Jakov (St. Jacob), which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It was built during the 15th century. The cathedral was the crowning achievement of Juraj Dalmatinac’s architectural work, a masterful synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance elements; Juraj’s work on the cathedral was completed by Nikola Firentinac. On the outer wall of the apse, the cathedral displays a remarkable frieze sequence of 74 human heads, probably representing the contemporary citizens of Sibenik. Unique construction techniques, involving grooved stone slabs, were used for the vault. The baptistery in the crypt under the south apse is perhaps the most impressive example of Juraj’s interpretation of different stylistic conventions.

The spirit of Sibenik is not embodied only in buildings, but it can also be heard in popular harmony-singing and tasted in quality wines from nearby vineyards. Grapes have been grown for centuries by hardworking farmers who have been reclaiming small tracts of fertile soil from the karst, particularly near Primosten. The Krka River is also an important part of Sibenik's identity, with its falls and the picturesque area around Lake Visovac. In the middle of the lake is a small island on which there is a Franciscan monastery. One should experience the summer shade under the mulberry tree in Skradin, taste the prosciutto ham (prsut), cheese and the famous wine Babic in Primosten, or go for a swim on a scorching day in Rogoznica.

Going towards Obrovac or Zadar on the Adriatic highway, a fine view opens on the Zrmanja river and its tributary Krupa, which flow along the eastern edges of Velebit. In the hinterland of the town of Biograd lies Vransko Lake, the biggest lake in Croatia, whose northwestern edge is an ornithological preserve. One of few colonies of herons in Mediterranean Croatia can be found on this lake. A long time ago, a fort of the Knights Templar stood on the shore of the lake.
Kornati National Park includes most of Kornati Archipelago, about one hundred and forty islands. On the southern part of the neighbouring Dugi Otok there is a nature park called Telascica cove, one of the biggest coves on the Adriatic coast, which contains a number of smaller coves and six islets. Another attraction is the view of 150-meter cliffs on the side of the park that faces the open sea and the Kornati islands. In the middle of this nature park there is a salt lake called Mir. The Kornati National Park is a paradise for boaters and day-trippers. On its sparsely populated islands people live in harmony with nature and to the tune of seasonal change.

The whole Adriatic Sea abounds in fish, mostly the kind known in Croatia as "blue" fish (pelagic fish), such as anchovy, mackerel, tuna, and pilchard. There are also over eighty species of "white" fish (white-fleshed fish), and many species of shellfish, cephalopods, crab, snail, starfish, sponge, and algae; some of these are endemic. Red coral, which is found only in very clean seas, is also endemic.